Source: THE HINDU-9th May,2019
Defying the skyscrapers that have
sprung up everywhere, there are still places in Hong Kong where you can enjoy
its history
Hong
Kong has grown in leaps and bounds from the 1970s. In the process, many vintage
and colonial-era buildings were razed to make way for glass skyscrapers. Still,
if one cares to investigate, there are remnants of the past that still thrive.
Tai
Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts
In
contrast to its original purpose, this police station and prison complex is
today the Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts. A cultural hub, it also houses
some of the city’s popular restaurants and bars. It has 16 heritage buildings
and two new blocks that were built to host exhibitions and events. As I walk
around the complex, I see a huge stage being set up. My guide, Fred Cheung,
explains that one of the reasons Tai Kwun is popular is because it provides the
much-needed public space that is scarce in the city.
The
Central Magistracy and D Hall, is in the surviving wing of the prison. The
authorities have tried to recreate what life in prison might have been like.
The cells still have numbers over them and grated steel doors. The Prison Yard
and the Parade Ground that were once seen as a symbol of oppression have now
transformed into a performance space for theatre, music, dance and film.
Man
Mo Temple
I
am standing at the dimly-lit sanctum of the Man Mo Temple, enveloped in the
aroma of incense and charmed by the red-and-gold ambience. Located at Hollywood
Road, the temple is home to two deities, the god of literature (Man Tai) who
holds a pen, and the god of war (Mo Tai) who wields a sword.
Dwarfed
by surrounding skyscrapers, the approximately 170-year-old temple is a
testament to Hong Kong’s cultural past and its people’s faith. The two deities
at the temple were worshipped in imperial China by those either wishing to do
well in the Civil Services exam or at martial arts. The temple still continues
to draw students seeking blessings for better education and career prospects.
The faithful write their wishes down on pieces of paper and offer them up along
with a lamp at the altar. The architecture is extravagant with Chinese
craftsmanship featuring ceramic figurines, intricate woodcarvings and murals.
Cheung
Chau Island
I
sail for an hour or so, away from the glassy façades of the city to the island
of Cheung Chau, where ‘Hong Kongers go to breathe,’ I am informed. The
bottle-green hills, the turquoise waters and buildings no taller than four
storeys, make a refreshing change from the hectic metropolis.
Traditionally,
the islanders practised fishing. However, in recent times, it has become a
tourist attraction, not just for its natural beauty, but also for its sea food,
cooked in traditional Cantonese style, and served in its many cafés.
The
aroma of fish balls and steam buns is irresistible and I succumb to a spell of
uncontrolled eating. My next destination is Cheung Po Tsai’s cave. Named after
a notorious pirate of the 18th Century who ruled the South China Sea, the cave
is all about narrow passages and steep treks. If you are claustrophobic, keep
away and head to Pak Tai Temple instead.
Erected
200 years ago, the temple is dedicated to Pak Tai, the Taoist god of the sea.
There is gold-plated woodcraft dating back to the Qing dynasty. If you crane
your neck far enough, you will get an eyeful of the roof with its colourful
ridges and ceramic figurines of dragons. It is also a good place to enjoy the
silence, that is again a rare commodity back in Hong Kong.
Before
leaving, I stroll on the sandy beaches of the island one last time, breathing
in the quiet and then head to the ferry that bears me back to the hustle and
roar of Hong Kong.
